Category: Travel

Tomb Raiders

The Ta Prohm temple is often referred to as the Tomb Raiders temple because it was depicted in the movie Laura Croft: Tomb Raider.

The site sits down a wide path through a heavily forested area. Just as depicted in the movie, the temple really does have trees growing on top, around and through the various buildings and walls. I’m talking about large trees with massive roots tangling the rock walls.

Snaking Tree Roots

This root is a great example. It comes in through a wall, coils around some interior design pieces and then plunges through the floor. It’s called the coiled snake. First of all it is massive, but it really dose remind me of a huge coiled snake. We came upon it as we navigated through the halls inside one of the temple buildings.

Restoration Work

A great deal of the temple has been restored, or stabilized, but work is ongoing. The trees draped over the walls were the most interesting part for us.

The temple was ‘lost’ for centuries before being rediscovered in the 19th century. As restoration work continues, efforts are made not to disturb the trees that have entwined themselves into the structure. If you get to Cambodia, be sure to put the Tomb Raiders temple on your list.

This morning (Feb 24) Julie and I visited Angkor Thom, a city and associated temples covering about 4 square miles. Angkor Thom had an estimated population exceeding 100,000 in the 12th century. The city is square, and appears to have a wall completely surrounding it. Located across the city footprint, many of the temples remain mostly covered with forest.

South Gate

Our bus dropped us outside the city, and we entered on foot through the South Gate, crossing the bridge over the moat. Imposing stones figures line both sides of the bridge. Each face represents a spirit, defending the approaches to the city. The figures continue right up the entry gate. They let us in without incident.

The gate itself is a narrow opening, only wide enough for a single lane of motorcycles, small cars or mini-busses. Pedestrian traffic shares the road, informally passing through the gate when vehicle traffic pauses. The South Gate, dominated by another imposing figure, guards entry into the city. This one is a large face carved in stone and set atop the entryway.

Moats and Water

It is worth mentioning that this moat we crossed, is a fraction of the width of the Angkor Wat moat. Our guide pointed out that research suggests the moat is part of a hydraulic system that drew fresh water in from the northeast corner of the city, cycled it through the city for use, and eventually discharged it into the moat to the south. After exploring the South Gate area we reboarded the bus and headed to the central temple, Bayon.

The front of the Bayon Temple is covered with an extensive bas-relief carving that tells the story of the city. The carved stone stretches for several hundred feet, interrupted only by the entry doors.

The Library

One of the internal building we looked at in the temple is the “library”, which we found to have a curious design. The stairs leading to the entrance are steep, possibly 60°, and the stairs stretch 20′-30’ feet up the outside of the building. I can’t imagine they had a great deal of visitors.

We spent close to an hour exploring inside and outside this temple, then it was time to move on. Passing the Terrace of the Leper King first, we saw multiple temples, some restored and many more just waiting their turn. Our next destination is the ‘Tomb Raiders Temple‘, Ta Prohm.

That’ll be the next blog.

Italy is a beautiful and welcoming country that we’ve visited several times. We’re often asked ‘where are the best places to see‘ on a visit. We haven’t seen all of Italy yet, but let’s cover some of our favorites.

Rome

If you’re traveling to Italy, Rome must be at the top of your list of must-visit locations. The city is the cultural capital and also home to the Vatican. While most of Italy has historical and cultural sites, in Rome you feel immersed in the centuries of history.

Our favorite tour company in Italy is The Rome Connection. We’ve used them for more than 10 years to explore Rome and recently, the Amalfi Coast. You want a company that can efficiently get you to the most important locations and help you maximize your time. They have our highest recommendations.

For hotels, our favorite in Rome is the Star Hotel Michelangelo. Located a leisurely walk from St. Peter’s Square, the hotel offers plenty of nearby restaurants and easy access to the Vatican and other local sites. They also have a great breakfast!

Vatican City

Located west of the center of Rome, and just across the Tiber River, it’s easy to spend an entire day at this site. Nestled within the bustling city of Rome, this tiny independent state is a treasure trove of history, art, and spirituality. Here you’ll find interesting things to explore ranging from St. Peter’s Basilica to the Vatican Museums and beyond.

When touring the Vatican, a local guide is highly recommended. The lines can be daunting, and there is so much you’ll miss without a talented local to assist you. If you’re traveling with The Rome Connection, they get the tickets in advance, allowing you to skip waiting in line. If this is your first visit to Rome, the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s Basilica should be on your ‘must see’ list.

Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museum

The Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel are seen together on one tour. In the Sistine Chapel, you’ll be fascinated by the incredible frescoes, including Michelangelo’s famous “The Creation of Adam.” ‘Respectful silence’ is expected, as one of the Vatican guides politely reminded us. We spent limited time in the Sistine Chapel. Seating is limited to along the walls, and we found you can only spend so much time staring at the high ceilings.

Home to one of the world’s most extensive art collections, the Vatican Museums’ vastness can be overwhelming. Highlights included the Raphael Rooms, the Gallery of Maps, and the Egyptian Museum.

Be sure to examine the paintings closely because many are intricate mosaics rather than paintings.

Early Rome

The city of Rome is like a gigantic outdoor museum of history. While there are many places to visit, our picks for visitors are the Colosseum, Roman Forman, Circus Maximus, and Pantheon. The Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, and Piazza Navona are also great spots.

The Colosseum is the largest ancient amphitheater ever built and is still the largest standing amphitheater in the world.  The architecture and engineering capture my attention, while Julie is struck by the history and events that make it so significant. Regardless of how you view it, the Colosseum is an amazing place.

The Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo in 1536, is perched at the top of the Capitoline Hill. The Roman Forum lies on a line between it and the Colosseum.

The Forum is a vast collection of temples and buildings. In Roman times, it was the commercial, government, and cultural center for the City of Rome. You will get your best photos from behind the Piazza del Campidoglio, looking down into the Forum and towards the Colosseum. However, walking through the Forum gives you up close and personal views that you will certainly remember.

Pantheon

The Pantheon and Piazza Navona are two of my favorite sites in Rome. They’re located East of Vatican City, across the Tiber River. A Catholic Church since the 7th Century, the Pantheon was built as a Roman temple in the 2nd Century AD. It was built on the site of an earlier temple (27 BC) that had burnt down.

We arrived at the Pantheon before it opened yet there was already a long line. It’s an amazing building with beautiful marble and architecture. The ceiling has a round opening at the top of the dome that provides natural light. This is a photo-rich environment.

Piazza Navona

Not very far away is Piazza Navona, a beautiful piazza with several fountains and statues. The piazza has been featured in many films including Catch-22, Coins in the Fountain, American Assassin, and The Talented Mr. Ripley. If you’re fortunate to visit when there is a market, you’ll have the full experience of this beautiful piazza. Julie and I bought two paintings here in 2013 that decorated our walls for many years.

Pisa and Cinque Terre

When thinking of the Cinque Terre region, dark Mediterranean waters, and brightly colored villages come to mind. Take a ferry from La Spezia to Monterosso al Mare, enjoying a bright sunny morning on the water. Along the coast, we passed the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, and Vernazza.

Monterosso

Disembark the ferry in Monterosso, the northernmost town in Cinque Terre. Monterosso is split into two sections. The southern section, where you arrive is full of shops and restaurants. Take your time to wander up the winding streets and through the various shops. Choose one of the restaurants with a view of the harbor and Mediterranean for lunch.

The trip back to Lucca is by train. To get to the train, there’s a tunnel with sidewalks running north to the other half of the town. As you exit the tunnel there’s a colorful view of a long curving beach with a thin strip of buildings. Steep, rocky hills rise rapidly to the east, leaving just enough room for the train tracks that are the town’s connection to the outside world.

The trip back to Lucca takes about 20 minutes and passes through multiple tunnels along the coast.

Venice

Venice is a city surrounded by water. Over 100 islands make up the city dominated by canals and over 400 connecting bridges. The most popular attractions in Venice include St Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s Palace, the Grand Canal, and the Piazza San Marco. We stayed at the Hotel Indigo Venice which is about a 30-minute walk to Piazza St Marco, or St Marks Square.

Be prepared for some waiting in lines. You want to see St Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s Palace, so get tickets early, or better still, sign up for a tour that offers ‘skip the line’ tickets. We spent several hours meandering the streets of Venice and exploring shops and art galleries. The city is clean and while it was full of tourists, we never really felt the crush of the crowd.

More to see

These are some of our favorite spots to visit in Italy, but these are only the central and northeast parts of the country. We have plans to visit Sicily, and the Italian Alps someday as well. Soon I’ll post about our trip to Naples, The Amalfi Coast, and Capri. What a country!

The seasons in South America are opposite ours here in the United States. That’s why we chose February to visit Chile and Argentina.

These two countries offer a great deal of variety, and we explored them from Cape Horn in the south to the Atacama desert in the north. Their diversity partly stems from their size, and geography. Were they in North America, they would stretch from Guatemala to Alaska. At the same time, the land rapidly rises from the Pacific coast in Chile, up to the peaks of the Andes, and then back down to the Atlantic coast in Argentina. The widest point across the two countries is roughly equal to the distance from Boston to Chicago.

Since we previously wrote about exploring Patagonia in the south, let’s talk about things to see and do in the central and north of Argentina.

I’ll cover Chile in a future post.

Buenos Aires

This city has been called the Paris of South America. There are several wide, tree lined avenues across the city, reminiscent of the broad boulevards of Paris. For example, Avenida 9 de Julio encompasses 16 lanes of traffic and landscaped medians. Getting around the city by taxi is easy and inexpensive. We never spent more that $10 USD on any taxi, and we travelled all over the city.

We were able to communicate with some basic Spanish, and found English spoken at most tourism sites, hotels and restaurants.

Evening Fun

When visiting the city of Buenos Aires, our recommendations include the Rojo Tango dinner and the Argentine Experience. For example, our tango evening included a great meal, very good wines and of course the Tango. The live music, great dancers, and traditional Argentine cuisine made for a great evening. (Fortunately, the evening involved watching rather than dancing!)

Another evening, we learned about Argentine culture, and prepared our own empanadas. The Argentine Experience brings fellow travelers together for a fun evening to enjoy fantastic local dishes and wine. Our only regret was not having enjoyed this night earlier in our trip.

Food and Day Trips

Six of us spent several days exploring the city both on our own and with private guides. Our top choices for things to see and do include the following:

• National Museum of Fine Arts – An excellent collection of art ranging from Rembrandt to Rene Rodin and Jackson Pollock.
• La Recoleta Cemetery – It’s most famous resident is Eva Perón or “Evita”, listed under her maiden name “Maria Eva Duarte”.
• El Cuartito – lunch at this famous pizza restaurant is a must! (Talcahuano 937, Buenos Aires)
• Sunday La Recoleta Market – Food, local crafts and art is on sale in the park near La Recoleta
• Biking Buenos Aires – Enjoy a day exploring the city by bicycle.

^{Biking Buenos Aires}

Iguazu National Park, Argentina

^{2.7 km of falls}

Iguazu Falls are in Iguazu National Park, about 700 miles north of Buenos Aires, on the border shared with Brazil. From talking with the tour guides in the park, the summer is the best time to visit here. Reaching the park requires flying to Puerto Iguazu in the northeast corner of Argentina. We took the two hour flight from Jorge Newberry Airport along the River Plate in Buenos Aires Buenos to Puerto Iguazu. From there, we headed south to a hotel cut out of the jungle. The follow morning we headed out early to the nearby park.

	Niagara Falls	Victoria Falls	Iguazu Falls
Water drop in feet	167	360	269
Length in feet	3,940	5,604	8,858

As the largest waterfall system in the world, Iguazu Falls consists of multiple separate waterfalls and cataracts, with drops between 197-269 ft. Cataracts are spread along 2.7-kilometers (1.7 mi) with islands separating the individual falls. The park has a network of trails and engineered walkways across the expanses of water that offer a variety of amazing views. To get to the falls, we took the small park train to the end of the line(3 km), Gargenta Station. From there we headed out across the water on an elevated walkway.

^{The Devil’s Throat}

Cataracts

The walkway (Paseo Garganta del Diablo) is a 1 km (0.6 mi) segment that brought us right to the edge of Devil’s Throat, the highest and deepest of the falls. Amazing! Roaring water got louder and louder as we approached the rising clouds of mist. Suddenly, we were at the edge, looking down into the maelstrom of the Devil’s Throat.

We spent several hours exploring the many distinct falls. Each turn in a trail seemed to take us to a new and vivid view of another waterfall. Along the way we also encountered an amazing variety of birds and butterflies. After a leisurely lunch in the park, we were ready for our last adventure of the day. We headed down to the lower Iguazu River, buttoned up in life vests over swim suits, and headed up the river in a jet boat.

Jet Boats

Racing up the river over the rapids we could see the approaching falls. Our boat pilot repeatedly edged us close to the deafening roar of the falls, including Devil`s Throat. After our third trip under pounding torrents of water from the falls, we were all completely soaked. We loved it!

^{From the Jet Boat}

What an amazing place Iguazu Falls is. Like Patagonia, this is a visit you have to make if you travel to Argentina!

There is so much more to say about Argentina. We are so glad that we made the trip. If you haven’t been there yet, you should strongly consider adding it to you future travel plans.

Recently, a friend of ours mentioned that they were looking at Iceland excursions for a cruise with several stops in Iceland. They asked for some suggestions as to where they should take excursions to. So, here is some of the advice we gave them.

From Akureyri, Iceland

Akureyri is a port at the end of a deep fjord on the north central coast of Iceland. I’m not sure, but I imagine that visits there would involve tendering in. On our visit to Akureyri, we spent an afternoon whale watching. While there was a fog bank involved, we had several very close encounters with whales.

Heading east, out of Akureyri, we took Hwy 1 to visit Godafoss, Myvatn Lake, and Dettifoss. I would imagine that all three of these are available on an excursion out of Akureyri.

Godafoss

A wonderful experience, and an easy hike, the waterfall is located near Fossholl, about 30 minutes east of Akureyri. From the parking area, the falls are easily reached by an improved trail. We traveled on the east side of the water. There were some more challenging trails down to the water’s edge that provided a nice perspective as well.

The name Goðafoss goes back to an 11th century legend. An Iceland leader, Porgeir decided that his people should adopt Christianity. To prove that the old gods have no power, he threw their images into this waterfall, and was thus the waterfall of the gods.

Myvatn Lake

Myvatn Lake is about 40 minutes down the road from Godafoss. The area features beautiful views of volcanic landscapes, and thermal springs. We saw plenty of birds on the many trails. As you explore some of trails, opportunities abound for some beautiful pictures of the lake and distant mountains. If you look carefully, you can see the steam rising from geothermal features in the distance.

Dettifoss

Dettifoss is another impressive waterfall in Vatnajokull National Park. About 45 minutes past Myvatn Lake, it is reputed to be the second most powerful waterfall in Europe

While the falls are a bit of a hike from the parking area, the effort is well worth it. You cross a vast expanse of volcanic detritus, completely void of any trees. Suddenly, the source of the pounding noise is before you.

The water is loader with glacial sediments and cascades over the falls with a roar. The drop is about the same as Niagara Falls, but the water falls nearly uninterrupted to the bottom, while Niagara has a significant buildup of collapsed rock remains. The local trails offer a variety of up close and panoramic views. Bring your camera for this sight!

From Reykjavik

From Reykjavik the best option for a daytrip is the golden circle. We thought the best sights on the drive were the falls at Gullfoss, the hot springs at Geysir, and the national park at Þingvellir.

Gullfoss

Gullfoss is an impressive waterfall that offers easy access. We hiked right to the edge for an incredible experience and to the hills overlooking the area where we had an amazing view. The cascade, comprised of multiple tiers, can be seen up close and from the surrounding hills.

Geysir

Geysir is a very miniature version of Yellowstone National Park located in Haukadalur Valley. The valley boasts hot springs, mud springs and geysers, including the powerful Strokkur, Smiður and Litli-Strokkur.
Strokkur is, arguably, the country’s most famous hot spring, shooting vast jets of boiling water from 20-40 meters (65-130 feet). Don’t worry about missing this incredible spectacle of nature, as Strokkur erupts every five to ten minutes; just make sure to have your camera ready.

Þingvellir

One of the last stops on the golden circle route is Þingvellir. This is where the North America and Europe tectonic plates drift apart, the crevasses being visible in Almannagjá canyon as well as in Silfra. We walked along a trail below the cliff of the North American plate and up to the top. From there we had an expansive view of the gap leading to the European plate. Beautiful area.

Iceland is a beautiful country. Regardless of where you visit, you’re going to find awesome sights and interesting advenures.

Patagonia is one of the most stunning natural wonders in the world, located at the southern tip of South America, with its rugged mountains, crystal-clear lakes, and magnificent glaciers. We selected three locations to focus on for the trip there in February 2023 – Torres del Paine National Park, Perito Moreno Glacier, and Upsala Glacier. Our visit to this remote and beautiful part of the world was an incredible experience.

Torres del Paine National Park
Torres del Paine National Park, located in southern Chilean Patagonia, was our first stop.  The park is a natural wonder that will take your breath away. The park is home to some of the most stunning landscapes in the world, including glaciers, turquoise lakes, and towering granite spires.

One of the most iconic sights in the park is the three towering granite spires that give the park its name. The Torres del Paine towers, or “the Horns” are an impressive sight. This is especially true when viewing their reflections in the clear waters of the many lakes. Regardless of where we went in the park, these spires dominated the horizon.

Grey Lake was our first stops in the park. The lake covers an area of over 4 square miles (10 sq km).  The lake is fed by the Grey Glacier, flowing down from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. The glacier gives the lake its unique blue color. Towering mountains, including the Paine Grande and Cerro Catedral surround the glacier.  The ‘Horns’ dominate the skyline.

After lunch in the Lago Gray Hotel, we headed south, then east, crossing the Rio Paini at Puente Weber. We stopped at the river and grabbed a dozen pictures to add to our mounting cache. Our next major stop was Salto Grande, a narrow gap where the water from Lago Nordenskjold cascades into Lago Pehoe and continues south to the ocean. Nordenskjold is a strange name for a lake in southern Chile, named after the Swedish explorer Otto Nordenskjold, who explored the region in the early 1900s.

Nordenskjold Lake, and Salto Grande both offer stunning views of the mountains. The Horns of Paine are right in your face across the clear blue water of the lake. Seeing, and feeling the mass of water flowing across the gap was incredible. The views of the surrounding mountains were truly awe-inspiring. For instance, if you’re taking a hike along the lake’s shore or simply soaking up the views from a distance, Nordenskjold Lake is a must-see destination for any traveler to the park.

On the trip back to our hotel in Puerto Natales, Julie and I agreed that Torres del Paine National Park is a must-see destination. Any traveler interested in experiencing the stunning natural beauty of Patagonia should definitely visit this park. The park’s towering mountains, crystal-clear lakes, and pristine glaciers make it a truly awe-inspiring place to visit.

Perito Moreno Glacier

The Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the most famous glaciers in the world and for good reason. Located in Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park, the glacier is a massive ice field that stretches over 97 square miles. It’s also one of the few glaciers in the world that is still advancing.

We chose to first take a boat tour that brought us up close and personal with the towering ice wall. Sitting in the boat, floating in front of the ice, we were able to see the glacier’s beautiful blue ice. (See the photo above) We also heard what sounded like rifle shots in the distance, the sound of ice cracking.

After that, we stopped at the Perito Moreno Forest Walk (Paseo del Bosque). This tiered trail runs through native trees, and offers many different perspectives of the glacier. The view gave me goosebumps, as did the wind on this chilly 40° summer day. We stared across the narrow gap and took in the glacier face rising over 240′ above the surface of the lake, creating a truly awe-inspiring sight. Another impressive view from Paseo del Bosque is that of the surrounding mountains. The glacier, in a valley surrounded by snow-capped peaks, creating a dramatic landscape that is sure to take your breath away.

Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or simply looking for a beautiful walk, Paseo del Bosque at Perito Moreno Glacier is a must-see destination in Patagonia.

Upsala Glacier
Upsala Glacier The Upsala Glacier is another must-see destination in Patagonia. Located on the Argentine side of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. The glacier is an enormous ice field that stretches over 600 square miles. That size makes it one of the largest glaciers in South America.

To see the glacier up close, we took a boat from Puerto Bandera, near the western end of Lake Argentino. From the port, we headed up the Upsala channel of Lago Argentino. After reaching the peninsula separating the Upsala and Cristina channels, we started encountering icebergs that had calved from the glacier.

The boat continued North to where we could see the Upsala, Cono, and Bertacchi Glaciers. Upsala is by far the largest of the three with Cono flowing parallel (from the north) and Bertacchi from the west. Icebergs, large and small, littered the channel.

Leaving the glacier behind we backtracked south and then headed north into Cristina Channel. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Estancia Cristina, part of Los Glaciares National Park. The displays here, located in a renovated barn, are amazing artifacts of life in this remote region from the early 20th century.

Continental Ice Lookout
The last portion of our exploration was crossing a rugged ridge in 4×4 trucks to the isolated Continental Ice Lookout. The research station monitored glaciers, Murallon, Cono, and Bertacchi which fed into the Upsala Glacier. These three glaciers slid between three mountains of the same name as the glaciers.

After disembarking at the abandoned research station we hiked to a nearby observation point. Ice covered the area less than 50 years ago. The retreating glacier, seen above, is now several kilometers in the distance. The ice sheet left behind smoothed rock surfaces and exposed seams of folded rock layers.

Standing here, we realized that there had been hundreds of feet of glacier ice here in the 1960’s. Julie and I were in grade school at that time. Now the ice was receding in the distance. Sadly, it was our last full day in Patagonia.

Check out our post on the rest of Argentina.

Bryce Canyon

Bryce Canyon National Park gets some of our highest marks among the National Parks we’ve visited. Our 2021 visit only enhanced our opinion of the park.

Driving in from Death Valley, we arrived early enough in the afternoon to enjoy a quick drive into the park. The late afternoon visit refreshed our memory of the sharp, colorful spires known as hoodoos. It was great to be back.

Our friends, Deb and Steve, had arrived the previous day. After dinner, we made plans to head back into the park early the following morning. Wanted to catch the morning light and take a hike before it got too warm.

Navajo Loop Trail

As planned, we headed to Sunset Point under clear skies around 7:30 AM. The low angles of sunlight illuminated the towering spires and hoodoos and produced contrasting shadows. That lighting provided great photography opportunities with a wonderful palette of warm colors. Once we took ‘more than enough’ pictures we headed down the Navajo Loop Trail.

The Navajo Loop, starting and ending at Sunset Point, consists of two primary segments. The eastern trail descends down past Thor’s Hammer, for a bit over 1/2 mile. After dropping about 515′ in elevation, the trail continues around to the west and climbs through “Wall Street”, back to Sunset Point.

The initial trek down the trail took us past plenty of colorful limestone hoodoos. The morning sun was quite warm, but after about 1/4 mile we were in the shade, descending through a high walled canyon of color, and some impressive trees.

We were glad we’d elected to climb back up through Wall Street because that portion of the trail was shaded nearly the whole way. Wall Street is at times very narrow and mostly very steep. The trail was well maintained, and it was a completely different experience than the eastern descent. According to the Park’s website, the Wall Street section is closed during the winter. So plan to visit between April and mid-October.

Sunset

At sunset, we drove to Bryce Point and Paria View to explore the sunset colors in the park. Both locations were nearly empty of visitors and yet gave us beautiful views of the park. Visiting the park early or late in the day provides, what I think, are the best views. There are more vivid colors and the shadows provide so much more depth to the carved and colorful limestone spires.

Queen’s Garden Trail

Over three days exploring the park we got plenty of hikes in, and I’m guessing that Julie managed to reach 10,000 steps each day. On the last day, Julie, Deb, and Steve took the Queen’s Garden Trail down into the Amphitheater. I took my camera and remained upon the rim.

The trail has a lot less shade than other treks. As a result, my three companions climbed up the last of the trail looking pretty hot and tired. The good news is that I was back at Sunrise Point to grab photos of each as they arrived back at the rim!

If you have never visited Bryce Canyon, add it to your list of places to visit. For those who have been there previously, consider going back again. This is one great National Park.

It was the middle of September when we headed south out of Oregon for Redwood National Park. We diverted from Lake Tahoe because of the wildfires threatening that resort community. Looking for someplace else to explore, we quickly focused on the Redwood forests of Northerm California.

Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park was our first destination as he headed for Stout Grove along the Smith River. Turning off Highway 199 just before Hiouchi, CA, we followed Douglas Park Drive until it turned from asphalt to dirt. We were now in the state park.

Stout Grove

From the start of the dirt road, it was only 1.2 miles to the turnoff for the Stout Grove Trailhead. We headed down the trail and into the grove. The peaceful quiet of the grove set the tone for the trek. This is a very easy and relatively flat trail other than a short descent in and climb out. The immensity of some of these redwoods left us in awe. Some were as big around as our car.

It took about 30 minutes to walk the circular path, and soak in the quiet and unexpected size of these old-growth trees in this grove. Then we climbed back to the parking area and moved on. We headed west through the park on a dirt road. Unfortunately, we found that road was blocked about two miles in due to nearby wildfires. So, we backed-tracked to Highway 199 and continued west to Crescent City.

Redwood National Park

Driving south along US-101 and the Pacific coast, we quickly entered Redwood State and National Parks. Just south of the Klamath River we turned off 101 onto the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway. If you get to Northern California, you have to take this drive. The parkway traverses miles and miles of old-growth Redwoods. We stopped several times, got out of our car, and just walked among these giant sentinels.

Just feet off the roadway you’re immersed in the quiet, peaceful setting of the forest. The soft ground is deeply carpeted with pine needles and absorbs the sound of human footsteps. The scent of redwoods, cedar, and eucalyptus saturated the air. As we looked up at these beautiful giants, we tried to fathom how we could capture the experience that saturated our senses.

Oregon

Having lived and grown up in Upstate New York, we see Oregon as a distant place.

Sure, we learned about the state in grade school. Lewis and Clark trekked from Missouri, across Kansas and Nebraska, and then followed the Missouri River to Montana. There they crossed Idaho and followed the Snake River to the Columbia River. From there they just rode the Columbia River to the Pacific Ocean.

Lewis and Clark

That trip was the start of the Oregon Trail. (Actually, only part of the Lewis and Clark Trail was used in the Oregon Trail, but that’s another story). What I found interesting was that the westward expansion to Oregon was driven, in part, by the declaration of the Monroe Doctrine and the concept of Manifest Destiny.

You’ve got to admit that, while you may not have heard those terms in many years, you can still remember learning (and possibly forgetting) about them in school. Well, don’t worry. This won’t be a rehashing of 5th Grade.

Exploring Oregon

We found ourselves in Oregon visiting Julie’s college friend Deb, and her husband Steve. While it is true that they live in far-off Oregon, they’re actually pretty normal, and nice folks. After our personal trek across Montana, we followed the Lewis and Clark trail along the Columbia River to their home, just outside Portland. There we relaxed for a few days before heading to the Oregon coast.

The first thing you need to get used to on the Oregon coast is the weather. While it was close to 90° in Portland, along the coast, it was a cool 65°. We spent three days in Lincoln City, and it was sunny, and cool every day. The mornings had bands of low-slung clouds blowing in off the ocean and keeping things cool.

Just inland, there are hills that rapidly rise from the coast. As those clouds get pushed up the slopes, they magically disappear among the fir and spruce. Yesterday morning, we followed the clouds up those hills to a lovely trail – Drift Creek Falls. The trailhead is located about 10 miles down Forest Service Road 17. That’s an apt description for winding through several backroads to get to an unmarked road that seems to lead to nowhere.

The trailhead has parking for about a dozen vehicles. A few miles before the trailhead, I pulled into a turnout and let an impatient driver pass. Steve commented, “He’ll probably get the last parking spot.’ And Steve was right!

We pulled in and there was the car that passed us. No open spots remained. Fortunately, within a minute someone left, heading back to civilization.

The trail itself was a nice experience. Obviously, there is a waterfall, but there’s also a suspension bridge and just the experience of hiking through the Coast Range forest. The elevation change is over 500′, with the first half going generally downhill towards the falls. Then you have to hike mostly uphill back up to the trailhead. The well-maintained trail makes the climb fairly easy.

Quiet Wonder

Hiking through the quiet forest of spruce and fir trees is wonderful. Moss hangs from many of the branches and the scent is calming. The sky was mostly clear, but the depth of the forest lets in little sunlight. The height the trees reach is incredible. I can’t even begin to guess, but they looked to be over 100′ tall.

The suspension bridge is right at the falls. Not like the Golden Gate, but not like Indiana Jones either. It only swayed when some knucklehead kids were screwing around as I was crossing… (Kids!) We walked over the bridge and headed out pretty quickly. There were several large groups without masks scrambling around at the viewing area for the falls. We headed back about ½ mile, stopped at a bench, and ate lunch from our day-packs.

On the off chance that you ever make it to distant Oregon and the Oregon Coast, try and fit some time into your schedule to hike to Drift Creek Falls. At 3.2 miles, this is a relatively easy trek that we think everyone would enjoy.

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  Drift Creek Falls Suspension Bridge
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  Drift Creek Falls
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  Drift Creek Trailhead
• 
  Along Drift Creek Trail
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  A dense section along Drift Creek Falls Trail
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  Drift Creek
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  Steve, Deb and Julie along Drift Creek Falls Trail
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  Along the trail

We left the trailhead in the early afternoon. The sky was partly cloudy and the temperature was about 75°. As we headed down the Forest Service road towards the coast we watched the temperature drop until it settled at 65°. All in all, it was a real nice experience.

Glacier National Park – Peaks and Valleys

On our second morning in the park, we woke to a much nicer day. The clouds were mostly gone, and the only hints of rain were the remnants left on the car, and in the parking lot puddles.

With priorities being what they are, we headed out of the park and grabbed our breakfast burritos and coffee. It was still pretty cool as we headed up the Going to the Sun Road. The hot coffee and breakfast burritos were just what we needed as we headed for Logan Pass.

This time, we bypassed the stops we’d previously been to along Lake McDonald, hoping to reach the vistas clear of yesterday’s clouds and rain. Our climb towards Logan Pass rewarded us for our decision to see the road again. We had wonderfully clear skies and incredible views. We made multiple stops and grabbed plenty of photos.

Just after navigating ‘The Loop’ switchback, we have a clear view of the valley we’d just driven up from Lake McDonald. By this time we also had some clouds starting to build on the western side of the mountains.

Once we cleared Logan Pass, the skies cleared and we had great views of the impressive peaks, valleys, and lakes. Sadly, most of the glaciers have retreated over the recent decades. Today they are just shells of their former selves. We spotted several for the road as we traversed the park. Had we the time, inclination, and maybe some camping gear, we could have taken one of the many hikes back to the glaciers.

Recommended

All in all, Glacier National Park turned out to be a fantastic experience. We’d highly recommend a visit. Suddenly, it’s time to hit the road again and head further west!